Kouichi Hishiya is Culinary Director at REONA Sushi Tokyo and a sushi chef with nearly 50 years of experience. He began his career at a small sushi restaurant in Shinjuku, then went on to spend many years working in Tsukiji, where he built much of his professional foundation at the counter. There, he helped grow a local restaurant into one of the district’s well-known sushi destinations and later served as head chef, training younger chefs while continuing to refine his own craft.
During his years in Tsukiji, Hishiya worked through the period when omakase became established as a recognized counter style, and he was part of the generation of chefs involved in that shift. Over the years, his guests included well-known chefs, serious diners, and people deeply engaged in Japan’s food culture, including chef Michiba Rokusaburo, the internationally known Iron Chef. After serving in leadership roles across several sushi businesses, he returned to a more personal style of hospitality centered on preparing and serving sushi directly to guests.
He later opened Hishitani in Jimbocho, where he developed it into a respected Japanese restaurant, and today he also works closely with the team at REONA Sushi Tokyo in Kanda. At REONA, he helps shape an experience that allows guests to understand the techniques, choices, and traditions behind Edomae sushi. His writing focuses on omakase, sushi ingredients, Edomae preparation methods, and the culture of the sushi counter from the perspective of someone who has spent decades living the craft.
