Hello, I’m Fujito, a sushi chef at REONA Sushi located in Kanda, Tokyo.
In this article, I’d like to introduce you to one of my personal favorite sushi ingredients—and one that plays a vital role in the world of Edomae sushi: Kohada.
At first glance, kohada may seem modest compared to the bold presence of tuna or the rich decadence of uni. However, among true sushi lovers, kohada is a must-try. It holds a special place at the very heart of Edomae sushi tradition.
Let's dive into the deep history behind kohada, the traditional craftsmanship required to prepare it, and the special tasting experience you can enjoy at REONA.
I hope by the end, you’ll be inspired to seek out and appreciate kohada the next time you enjoy sushi in Tokyo!
Kohada belongs to a category of fish known as “silver fish” in Edomae sushi. Other "silver fish" include Aji (horse mackerel) and Saba (mackerel), but Kohada stands out for the refined beauty of its skin—the thin, shimmering layer of silver left on the flesh glistens elegantly under the light.
Kohada is a small fish and, at first glance, looks rather modest. Unlike the vivid red of tuna or the rich golden tones of uni, it lacks flashy color. Moreover, kohada isn’t particularly delicious when simply boiled or grilled. Even among Japanese people, it’s rare to encounter kohada outside of a sushi restaurant.
To make matters more challenging, kohada is full of fine bones and requires careful, time-consuming preparation. In the old days of Tokyo (then called Edo), kohada was caught in huge quantities. However, because it was not considered a particularly desirable fish for cooking, much of the catch was simply discarded by those reasons.
It’s no exaggeration to say that the question — “Is there a way to make something seemingly worthless truly delicious?” — became one of the driving forces behind the evolution of Edomae sushi.
Transforming kohada into exquisite sushi requires extraordinary skill and painstaking effort. There are far easier and more glamorous ingredients to serve, but Edomae sushi chefs have always taken pride in perfecting even the humblest fish. This dedication to craftsmanship—prioritizing aesthetics and flavor over efficiency—is the essence of Edomae sushi philosophy.
When I was younger, I’ll admit there were times I dreaded preparing kohada. It seemed tedious, difficult, and unrewarding. But now, kohada has become a point of pride for me. It’s a symbol of perseverance, skill, and the spirit of true sushi craftsmanship.
Among sushi chefs, kohada is known as a true test of skill. It is said that one's mastery — or lack thereof — becomes immediately evident when preparing this particular fish.
Through centuries of trial and error, Edomae sushi chefs discovered the best ways to bring out kohada’s delicate flavor: namely, the techniques of salt-curing and vinegar-curing.
These methods are now cornerstones of traditional Edomae preparation.
One important thing to remember: the goal is not to make the fish taste salty or sour. If either flavor becomes too prominent, it overpowers the natural umami and subtle aroma of kohada. The key is to strike a perfect balance — enhancing the fish’s flavor without masking its essence. Achieving this balance requires both intuition and technical precision.
Preparing the bones properly also demands great expertise. When salt- or vinegar-cured correctly, kohada's fine bones become remarkably tender. By handling the fish with refined knife skills, a chef can create sushi where the bones virtually disappear in your mouth—an almost magical texture. On the other hand, some restaurants even remove each tiny bone by hand.
At REONA, which approach do we use? I’ll leave that for you to discover when you taste it yourself.
The process begins with salt-curing. A delicate amount of salt is sprinkled over the fish to draw out excess moisture, concentrating the natural flavors hidden within the kohada.
If the salt is too strong or the curing time too long, the fish quickly becomes overly salty and loses its elegance. That’s why we meticulously adjust the amount of salt, the curing time, and even the ambient temperature to achieve just the right balance.
Honestly, when I was younger, I ruined many batches of kohada during this step. Even now, after years of experience, salt-curing remains a process that demands my full attention every single time.
Next comes vinegar-curing. Some guests worry that vinegar might make the fish too sour — but rest assured, that’s not the goal.
At REONA, we use a specially blended vinegar that gently enhances the kohada without making it aggressively acidic. The result is a moist, tender texture with a refreshing aftertaste. The vinegar is present, but only just enough to lift the flavor, not dominate it.
Originally developed as a way to preserve fish by preventing bacterial growth, vinegar-curing evolved through the hands of Edomae chefs into a sophisticated flavor-enhancement technique.
There’s more to kohada preparation than curing—it’s also about the art of slicing.
The beautiful patterns you often see on kohada sushi are not just for visual appeal.
They serve a practical purpose: ensuring that the soy sauce applied by the chef adheres properly and doesn’t slide off.
In high-end sushi restaurants, customers typically don’t dip their sushi into soy sauce themselves. The chef selects the right type of soy sauce and applies the right amount for you. That’s why carefully cutting the fish — without tearing it — is crucial for both flavor and presentation.
You may also see kohada styled in a "braided" fashion, creating a graceful, woven appearance. This, too, combines practical functionality with aesthetic elegance—hallmarks of true Edomae craftsmanship.
Kohada is available throughout the year, but in Japan, its name, size, flavor, and price change depending on the season and stage of growth.
There are few fish that demonstrate such a clear evolution with the seasons—a reflection of Japan’s uniquely refined food culture. Here, let me introduce two particularly well-known variations of kohada.
Shinko refers to juvenile kohada caught only during early summer. These fish are tiny, just around 4 to 6 centimeters long, and extremely limited in supply.
Ironically, despite being the smallest, shinko is the most prized and expensive stage of kohada. Its flesh and skin are so tender that it melts effortlessly in your mouth—a texture unlike anything else.
Among Japanese sushi connoisseurs, including me, shinko is a seasonal treasure that they eagerly anticipate each year.
When kohada matures and grows larger, it is called konoshiro. Konoshiro reaches its peak season in winter, growing over 15 centimeters and storing a rich layer of fat.
However, with size comes thicker bones, making it a much more challenging ingredient to prepare correctly. If not handled properly, the bones can become unpleasantly noticeable when eating. While konoshiro’s flavor is bolder and its delicate texture is somewhat lost compared to shinko or young kohada, it offers a robust, fatty richness that many people find deeply satisfying.
Its price tends to be lower than shinko, but when prepared properly, konoshiro can deliver a powerful and deeply rewarding sushi experience. Personally, whenever I successfully prepare a beautiful piece of konoshiro, I can’t help but do a small victory pump in my heart.
At REONA, we don't simply serve kohada—we want our guests to truly understand why this humble fish holds such an important place in the world of Edomae sushi. That's why our course menus are carefully designed not only to feature globally popular items like tuna and sea urchin, but also to shine a spotlight on traditional Edomae ingredients like kohada.
For guests new to Edomae sushi, our English-speaking service manager provides friendly and detailed explanations throughout the experience.
Before you even taste your first piece, we guide you through what Edomae sushi truly represents, ensuring that when you finally savor kohada and other classic ingredients, you’ll appreciate them even more.
The kohada we serve at REONA is crafted with an unwavering commitment to beauty. Its streamlined shape, the translucent gleam of its silver skin, and the moist, supple texture achieved through precise curing—these are the details we obsess over.
When a piece of kohada is placed before you, its simple elegance is unmistakable. To me, it’s a perfect expression of Japanese aesthetics.
By the way — have we removed the bones from our kohada, or have we left them naturally tender through careful preparation? That’s a little secret I invite you to discover for yourself.
Either way, I believe you’ll be able to sense the craftsmanship behind every bite.
Learning about the traditional techniques and the passion poured into kohada sushi can deepen your appreciation for the art of sushi itself.
To be honest, when I was younger, I didn’t particularly like working with kohada. The fish was full of fine bones, the preparation was time-consuming, and there were easier, more glamorous ingredients I could focus on instead.
But as the years went by, I realized something important: Kohada is the true measure of a sushi chef’s skill. That’s why today, kohada has become a source of pride for me.
When I think back to those early days — how I used to shy away from handling kohada — and now find myself standing confidently behind the counter, proudly presenting it to guests, it feels like a quiet but meaningful achievement. I believe this journey is something that many Edomae sushi chefs experience. It’s part of what ties us to the generations of craftsmen who came before.
When properly prepared, kohada is astonishingly delicious. And outside of Japan, it's a delicacy that very few people ever get the chance to taste.
If you visit Tokyo, I warmly invite you to come to REONA and experience the soul of Edomae sushi for yourself.
Each piece of sushi we serve is crafted with deep respect for tradition, and a sincere desire to share the true spirit of sushi with you.
