Hello, I’m Fujito, head sushi chef at REONA Sushi Tokyo.
REONA is not just a place to eat sushi—it’s a place to understand it. Here, we offer a unique sushi experience that goes far beyond the counter. Through direct interaction with our chefs and detailed explanations from our English-speaking staff, guests gain deeper insight into the techniques, culture, and spirit behind every piece of sushi. Though we only recently opened our doors, REONA has already been recognized by visitors from around the world for its distinctive approach to Edo-style sushi.
Today, I’d like to introduce one of my personal favorite toppings—anago, or saltwater conger eel.
Unlike most other sushi ingredients, anago stands out for its fluffy, tender texture and elegant, mildly sweet flavor. It’s a refined ingredient that demands precise, time-honored preparation techniques. In fact, anago is considered essential when talking about the soul of Edo-style sushi.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through the true charm of anago sushi, as we make it at REONA. From traditional methods to our own signature touches, I hope you’ll come to appreciate the depth and beauty of this beloved ingredient—and perhaps be inspired to visit us in Tokyo.
Anago, alongside kohada, is one of the most iconic toppings in Edo-style sushi. While it looks similar to eel (unagi) — which is enjoyed in many parts of the world—there is a key distinction in Japan: in the Kansai region, unagi is often used in sushi, but here in Kanto (including Tokyo), we traditionally use anago instead.
This preference stems from a time when Tokyo was still a marshy, wetland area, and anago was caught in great abundance. Back then, Edo-era sushi chefs began experimenting with how to prepare this plentiful fish into something delicious and elegant. Their creativity eventually elevated anago into a premium ingredient used in two of Japan’s most revered traditional dishes: Edomae sushi and tempura.
Especially in the world of sushi, chefs developed highly refined techniques to simmer the eel to perfection and created a signature sauce called tsume, unique to anago. These innovations turned anago into something more than just a topping—it became a symbol of Edo-style craftsmanship.
Today, anago remains beloved across all ages. At REONA, it consistently ranks in the top five most requested toppings among international guests.
Anago naturally lives in muddy wetlands, and if not treated properly, it can retain a strong earthy smell.
It’s also notoriously slippery, like unagi, and filled with fine bones—making it difficult to handle. What’s more, unlike unagi, anago contains less fat, which means its flavor must be drawn out through precise preparation.
Because of these challenges, anago was once considered a low-grade fish, much like kohada in earlier times. But Edo-style sushi chefs saw potential in this humble catch from Tokyo Bay and developed techniques to bring out its best qualities while extending its shelf life.
Through centuries of refinement, anago has evolved from an underappreciated fish to a sophisticated sushi topping that embodies elegance, subtlety, and the spirit of Edomae.
To use anago as sushi, it must first be simmered carefully in a blend of sake, soy sauce, and other seasonings.
Because the flesh of anago is very soft and filled with tiny bones, managing the heat and timing during simmering is critical. Too much heat, and the fish falls apart—making it unusable as sushi. Not enough heat, and the bones remain unpleasantly firm.
When cooked properly by an experienced sushi chef, simmered anago becomes exquisitely tender—just soft enough to hold its shape as nigiri, yet so delicate that it melts in your mouth. Simmering also softens the bones completely, to the point where they virtually disappear upon eating. This melt-in-the-mouth texture and refined taste are what set anago apart from other sushi toppings, and achieving it is only possible through meticulous care and skill.
Each sushi chef has their own method and timing when it comes to simmering. Personally, getting to the point where I could confidently prepare anago as sushi was one of the most meaningful milestones in my career.
No discussion of anago sushi would be complete without mentioning "Tsume" — a rich, sweet soy-based sauce unique to Edo-style cuisine.
Tsume is used sparingly, only on select ingredients such as anago or hamaguri (clam), and it’s always applied by hand just before serving. At REONA, we carefully brush each piece of anago with our house-made tsume just before presenting it to our guests.
The sauce itself is made by reducing the broth left over from simmering the anago, then enriching it with additional stock extracted from the fish’s bones and heads—sometimes even adding vegetables for extra depth. As a result, tsume captures the full umami essence of anago while maintaining a natural sweetness that enhances rather than overpowers.
Every sushi restaurant has its own take on tsume. At REONA, we’ve developed our own unique recipe, fine-tuned to match the texture and flavor of our simmered anago.
As we’ve seen, anago has long been cherished in Tokyo as a beloved local flavor. The modern version of anago sushi is the result of countless refinements, embodying the creativity and craftsmanship of Edomae chefs.
At REONA, we prepare authentic anago sushi using traditional techniques, but with flavors adjusted to suit modern palates.
Each piece is meticulously crafted by hand—featuring tender, perfectly simmered anago, a refined house-made tsume sauce, and the precise balance of rice and seasoning that holds it all together. In that one bite, you’ll experience the full spectrum of Edomae skill and philosophy. The softness, the sweetness, the aroma—it’s a story of history, dedication, and evolution, all packed into a single piece of sushi.
What sets REONA apart is not just the quality of our sushi, but the experience surrounding it. Our English-speaking staff will guide you through the cultural and culinary background of each dish, and you’ll have the chance to interact directly with me, the chef behind the counter. We don’t just want you to eat anago sushi—we want you to understand it.
Through conversation and context, we hope you’ll appreciate it not only with your taste buds, but with all your senses.
In Kanda, the historic heart of Tokyo’s sushi culture, I invite you to come experience a piece of tradition and innovation, brought together in every bite.
And trust me — my Anago Sushi is DELICIOUS!
Let me leave you with one final tip.
As you’ve probably gathered by now, we Tokyoites have a special place in our hearts for anago. But did you know there’s a rare seasonal delicacy that only appears for a short time each year?
Between February and March, we sometimes enjoy baby conger eels, known in Japan as noresore. These translucent, delicate creatures have a smooth, refreshing texture and subtle flavor that sushi enthusiasts adore.
When served as sushi, they’re typically presented in gunkan-roll style, but they can also be enjoyed in other forms, such as with ponzu sauce or as a chilled appetizer.
If you happen to spot noresore during your time in Japan, I highly encourage you to try it—you may not get another chance. Outside of Japan, I doubt you’ll find baby conger eel on the menu anywhere.
