Please note: Reservations are required; walk-ins cannot be accommodated.
Please note: Reservations are required.
Hello, I’m Fujito, head sushi chef at REONA Sushi Tokyo. Alongside my team, I’ve helped shape REONA into a one-of-a-kind restaurant dedicated to creating an immersive experience—where guests not only enjoy exquisite sushi but also gain a deeper understanding of its traditions and craftsmanship.
In this article, I’d like to introduce one of the most classic and culturally significant sushi toppings in Japan: tai, or sea bream.
Tai holds a special place in Japanese cuisine. Among all white fish, it is considered one of the most prestigious, not just for its delicate flavor but because it’s deeply tied to celebrations and good fortune in Japanese culture.
Unlike bold-flavored fish such as tuna, tai is known for its subtle elegance—making it a true test of a sushi chef’s skill. To fully bring out its refined aroma and umami, precise selection and expert preparation are absolutely essential. Tai is the kind of fish that reveals the true craftsmanship behind every piece.
And from spring to early summer, a special seasonal treasure appears: kasugo, the young version of tai. This delicate, rare topping is considered a highlight of Edomae sushi during the warmer months.
In this article, I’ll take you behind the scenes of how we prepare and present tai and kasugo at REONA, a sushi restaurant located in the heart of Tokyo’s historic Kanda district.
For some sushi lovers—especially those from outside Japan—tai may seem like a background player compared to more famous ingredients like tuna or uni. But I’m confident that after reading this, you’ll see this fish in a whole new light.
Tai is a deeply symbolic ingredient in Japanese culture. For centuries, it has been served at festive occasions and is considered a good-luck charm. In fact, the Japanese word for celebration, medetai, contains the word tai—underscoring its cultural significance.
Its vibrant red color also aligns with traditional celebratory aesthetics in Japan. Tai has long been used in traditional Japanese cooking in many forms, including grilled with salt, simmered, or steamed. Even the bones are prized for their rich flavor and are often used in soups and broths.
Naturally, tai also became an essential part of sushi—another food closely associated with celebration and seasonality.
High-quality tai has a moist, tender texture and a clean yet deeply satisfying umami. Meanwhile, kasugo—its juvenile form—has an even more concentrated aroma and flavor. Available only in a narrow window between spring and early summer, kasugo is a true seasonal delicacy. At REONA, we offer kasugo only during this time of year.
If you’re lucky enough to try it, know that you’re tasting one of the finest seasonal expressions of Edomae sushi.
Tai is a delicate fish where even the way a knife is applied can dramatically affect its flavor and texture. Some preparations keep the skin on, allowing diners to enjoy the rich layer of fat just beneath the surface—adding both complexity and aroma.
Kasugo, being a much smaller fish, requires advanced techniques for handling and preparation. Its rich flavor can be elevated further through a variety of traditional methods.
One classic method of preparing tai is called matsukawa-zukuri, where the skin is left intact and gently seared.
First, small incisions are made on the skin, then only the surface is carefully grilled. This contrast in texture between the slightly crisped skin and tender flesh, combined with the subtle melting of fat beneath the skin, creates a multi-layered flavor experience.
The name matsukawa literally means “pine bark,” referring to the beautifully seared appearance of the skin, which resembles the bark of a pine tree.
At REONA, during seasons when kasugo is unavailable, we often highlight tai’s quality through this method—creating visually striking and deeply flavorful nigiri that engages both the eyes and the palate.
When served raw, tai can have a firm texture that may overpower the delicate harmony between the fish and the rice. In sushi, the ideal bite is when the topping and rice move together as one, dissolving seamlessly in the mouth. If the tai is too chewy, it breaks that unity.
That’s why thin slicing is crucial. The fish must be cut with precision—thin enough and at the right angle to ensure it blends effortlessly with the rice. This requires a razor-sharp knife and expert handling, as a dull blade would crush the fibers, ruining both texture and appearance.
Though the finished nigiri may look simple, it is one of the purest reflections of a sushi chef’s technique and sensitivity.
Kasugo, as a juvenile sea bream, shines when lightly cured with salt—a method that gently draws out and intensifies its innate sweetness and umami.
At REONA, we carefully sprinkle high-grade salt over the surface and allow it to rest just long enough for the flavor to develop. The result is a beautifully balanced piece of sushi that captures the gentle sweetness of spring.
We often leave the skin on, adding an elegant layer of fat to the overall taste. But timing is everything. Too much salt or too long a cure can firm up the flesh too much and overwhelm its natural flavor. So we fine-tune the curing process based on the size and condition of each fish.
Kombujime—curing fish between sheets of kelp—is a long-standing Edomae method, and it works wonderfully with tai.
The kelp gently draws out moisture while infusing the fish with a deep, umami-rich essence. This gives the flesh a silky texture and elevates its flavor to new levels.
This technique is perfect for adding depth to tai’s naturally subtle profile, transforming it into something far more layered and expressive.
Kasugo is only available for a few short weeks from spring to early summer, making it a rare and symbolic seasonal treat.
When lightly salt-cured, kasugo expresses the freshness and brightness of the season. It’s not just sushi—it’s a moment in time, captured in a single bite.
Tai, on the other hand, is available year-round, but we only serve the highest-grade specimens, using techniques like matsukawa-zukuri or kombujime to highlight their best features.
At REONA, we adjust our preparation to the season, but always with an emphasis on beauty and balance. Tai and kasugo are both excellent examples of Edomae sushi as a visual and sensory art form.
At REONA, we always have English-speaking staff on hand to explain the cultural background and techniques behind each ingredient—including tai and kasugo.
Guests are welcome to observe my work from across the counter, ask questions, and immerse themselves in the world of sushi through conversation and interaction.
As a sushi chef, I believe that ingredients like tai—mild, subtle, and often overlooked—are where the soul of Edomae sushi truly lies. These quiet ingredients demand mastery. They challenge the chef to bring out their beauty without relying on boldness.
That’s why I take great pride in serving tai, just as I do with kohada, another understated yet essential sushi ingredient. For me, this reflects the original spirit of Edomae sushi—a cuisine born from the hands of artisans and enjoyed by the everyday people of Edo (old Tokyo).
At REONA, I invite you to experience that spirit firsthand.